The Windowsill Doesn’t Clock Off: Seven Crops to Sow in November 2026

November is not the obvious month to be fiddling with seed packets. The light is thin, the windowsill is cold at night, and the temptation is to write off the next four months and wait for spring. But a bright sill is still a workable seedbed, and a modest sowing now gives you something fresh to cut through the dark weeks. The trick is to pick crops that tolerate cool conditions and low light, rather than pretending you can grow summer tomatoes in a Leeds bay window in December.

As of 7 November 2026, the key is to work with the season. A south-facing windowsill is your best asset; east is workable; north is hard going. Keep trays away from draughty casements, rotate them every few days so seedlings don’t lean, and use saucers so you’re not sloshing water over the sill. A cheap thermometer helps: most of these crops germinate happily at 15–20°C, but they grow slowly once the evening temperature drops.

1. Pea shoots: the fastest return

If you want something edible before December, start here. Use a shallow tray or old mushroom punnet with drainage holes, fill it with 3–4cm of peat-free multipurpose compost, and sow dried peas thickly — 'Meteor' or 'Douce Provence' from a seed packet, or plain marrowfat peas from the shop if you’re feeling frugal. Soak them overnight first. Cover with a little more compost, water, and keep them warm until they poke through. Then move them to the brightest sill you have. You can cut the tips in three to four weeks, and often get a second cut if you leave a couple of growth points. They taste like fresh peas, which is a small miracle in November.

2. Microgreens: small, quick, forgiving

Microgreens are the windowsill’s party trick. Radish, mustard 'Red Giant', cress and kale all work. Sow them densely on a thin layer of compost in a shallow tray, cover with a lid or plastic bag until germination, then uncover and give them light. They’ll be ready in 10–21 days depending on the crop and the warmth of the room. Cut with scissors just above the compost. Sow a new pinch every 10 days rather than a whole packet at once. The main risk is damping off, so keep airflow moving and don’t overwater.

3. Winter lettuce: slower, but worth the wait

Choose hardy varieties such as 'Winter Gem', 'Valdor' or 'Arctic King'. Sow in modules or small pots, germinate at around 15–18°C, then grow on cool and bright. Don’t expect a summer heart; you’re aiming for baby leaves and loose rosettes. Harvest outer leaves after six to eight weeks, or leave plants to size up as the light returns in January 2027. Keep the compost evenly moist but not soggy. A windowsill that’s too warm and dark will produce pale, stretched seedlings — better cool and bright than cosy and gloomy.

4. Land cress: peppery and hardy

Land cress, sometimes sold as American cress, is a useful winter leaf with a hot, watercress-like kick. Sow it shallowly, keep it moist, and it will germinate at lower temperatures than many salads. Harvest leaves six to eight weeks after sowing, picking the outer ones and leaving the crown to regrow. It’s excellent in sandwiches and adds a bit of fire to winter salads. If your windowsill gets very cold, move the pot to a porch or cold frame once established.

5. Hardy herbs: parsley, coriander and chervil

Basil is a non-starter on a cold November sill, but parsley, coriander and chervil are more forgiving. Parsley is slow, so sow 'Flat of Italy' or 'Titan' in a deep pot and be patient; you may only get a few sprigs before Christmas, with more in early 2027. Coriander 'Calypso' is quicker, and chervil prefers cool conditions. Keep herbs in individual pots so you can move them to the brightest spot. Cut sparingly at first, then more generously once plants are established.

6. Spring onions: a patient crop

Spring onions are not a quick fix, but they earn their space. Sow 'White Lisbon' or 'Ishikura' in a deep pot or modules, germinate at 15–20°C, and grow on in good light. Thin them to give each plant a little room. In low winter light they’ll be slow — expect 10–12 weeks or more to reach scallion size — but the green tops are usable earlier. They’re ideal for windowsill growers who want something to snip over eggs or noodles.

7. Kale for baby leaves

Kale is tough, and that’s the point. Sow 'Red Russian' or 'Winterbor' in modules, then grow on for baby leaves. You can start cutting after six to eight weeks, taking the outer leaves and leaving the growing point. It won’t bulk up like a garden plant, but a few pots give you tender leaves for pasta, soups and stir-fries. Red Russian is particularly pretty on a sill, with purple stems and grey-green leaves.

The practical bits

Use containers with drainage holes, peat-free compost and a saucer. Water little and often; winter windowsill compost can stay wet for a long time. Feed sparingly — microgreens and pea shoots don’t need it, and lettuce in fresh compost rarely does. If your sill is single-glazed and draughty, a clear plastic bag over the tray works as a mini propagator until germination; take it off as soon as seedlings appear. Rotate pots, keep leaves off the glass, and don’t sow all seven crops at once unless you have the space. Two or three small sowings, staggered, will feed you better than a crowded windowsill of struggling seedlings.